“Dominance” in Dog Training and Behavior, Explained

Guest post by Nancy Frensley, CPDT-KA, CAP2, CNWI, CGC Evaluator, Senior Behavior and Training Manager, Berkeley Humane


Dog trainers sometimes still talk about a dog being dominant or dominating. This terminology has affected how people behave toward their dogs and is thankfully, falling out of use. The term is common among biologists who primarily study species in wild settings. It has a use and a precise definition in that context. It describes how a specific species or sub species controls resources in a domain and it can describe population dynamics.

People sometimes excuse their dogs' rude behavior toward other dogs by saying, “He’s alpha.” And some famous trainers have recommended ways to get dogs to change their behavior by “dominating them in physical ways. These are moves that all too often get used for every behavior an owner doesn’t like such as not coming quickly enough or barking at another dog.

Dog trainers, many of whom had been military dog handlers during World War II, were quick to pick up early theories about the dog/human relationship, which were loosely based on observations of captive wild wolves and how they behaved toward each other. This led observers to the believe that “dominance” was a personality trait.

It was thought, at the time, that if we just mirrored a wolf pack with our own dogs, We could solve all behavior and training problems. Dog owners were instructed to go to the mat with their dogs and always win, no matter how exhausting it might be, and people dutifully did so, pinning mystified and frightened dogs to the ground until they gave up (or bit the owners)

Using these theories put both trainers and pet owners into conflict with the dogs they loved. The whole misguided movement resulted in the widespread use of abusive training techniques which have rapidly been replaced with dog friendly training through positive reinforcement and games. These are much more palatable to both the dogs and the people involved and gets better results in the long run.

There is a very easy way to view dominance when referring to companion dogs and their people. Dominance, in biology, is the control of and access to resources. We humans control most of our dogs’ resources and control access to just about everything our dogs want. We determine when and where the dog eliminates, what resting surfaces he can use, when and what he eats and how he greets strangers. That makes us, by default, the dominant species.

We can decide how we use this status and don’t have to do anything extra to prove that we are, indeed, the dominant species in this relationship. We can choose to be kind, to train in a dog friendly way and be gentle & compassionate while setting the boundaries needed for our dogs to live with us in a human society.

And have you noticed, nobody talks about dominating cats?


Berkeley Humane's training philosophy and testimonials are on our website, as is a list of upcoming dog training classes.

Dogs Playing Together: The Good, the Bad, the Ugly

Guest post by Nancy Frensley, CPDT,CAP2, CNWI, CGC Evaluator, Senior Behavior and Training Manager, Berkeley Humane

One of first things adopters from Berkeley Humane want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.

Pixie and Cinnamon chase a friend. Photo by Pär Winzell.

Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.

Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed. Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives. Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.

Photo by Pär Winzell

Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely. Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.

From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.

There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:

Good dog play.

You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.

• Healthy play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and- take. Both dogs are clearly having fun. 
• Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
• Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming defensive, interrupt the play.
• Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.

Questionable dog play.

You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviors can lead to a fight.

• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of- war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures. These postures are not play behavior. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.

Rude and totally inappropriate dog play.

This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behavior and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on- one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviors are:

• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
• Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over-arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.

If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.

It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.

Photo by Pär Winzell

If you have questions about your dog's behavior, please feel free to email training@berkeleyhumane.org. Learn more about Berkeley Humane's training approach, led by post author Nancy Frensley, and peruse our list of upcoming classes under Nancy's expert guidance.

Woof Wednesday: Let's Just Walk!

Trying to walk a dog with poor leash manners can be quite a stressful experience. If you’re having trouble walking your dog, never fear! Berkeley Humane is holding a “Lets Just Walk” class starting on March 19 that offers a series of exercises which (with practice) will increase your dog’s ability to focus during walks. The ultimate goal is to reach relaxed leash walking with your dog, build team work and ensure that walking your dog in public is an enjoyable, stress free experience for everyone involved!

Walking on leash can ultimately be a very frustrating experience for dogs - they can feel uncomfortable, limited, or vulnerable if not guided and trained. When properly taught leash manners, dogs can get a lot of great mental and physical stimulation from a nice leashed walk!

Nancy Frensley, behavior and training manager at Berkeley Humane, explains that a good measure of walking manners is being able to recall your dog to your side when passing another person or dog, and have your dog stay walking right alongside you until passing is clear. As a rule of thumb, this is a good courtesy to extend to others - even though your dog may be very friendly, most dogs are not comfortable with other dogs rushing right up to their face, and some people may be afraid of dogs!

According to Nancy, a common mistake most people make is to not ask anything of their dog while on leash. She explains, “Without cues or a ‘job,’ dogs tend be free to do…well, what dogs do! They bark, chase squirrels, react to other dogs and sounds.”

Rather than teach dogs to robotically watch you and not enjoy the walking experience, Nancy emphasizes allowing dogs to sniff and explore in a relaxed manner on the other end of the leash, but guiding them to understand your requirements (such as heeling and walking beside you when called). A key to this is to be alert and aware your environment and recall your pup with positive cues before they get a chance to be aroused and riled up. 

In “Lets Just Walk,” dogs (and their humans) will learn positioning and heeling in all directions, which are both some key tools in working towards off leash etiquette.

“Good walking takes lots of energy and effort. An ideal walk is one where your dogs body is balanced over all four feet,” said Nancy, “This walking class will give people a very solid start and foundation to continue building on.”

You can register for the class as well as browse others at the Berkeley Humane dog training schedule page.

Indoor Activities To Entertain Your Dog Through Winter!

Now that it’s colder, the days are shorter, and the weather is (hopefully) getting wetter, it isn’t always as easy to take your dog out for all the exercise and activity it needs. If you’ve got a very active or young dog, this can be a big challenge. We’ve rounded up some ideas to keep your dog exercised and entertained while you keep your sanity!

The Usual Suspects: Tug and keep-away are games most of you probably play with your dogs. These can easily take place indoors and provide an outlet for all that energy as long as you play safely!

New Tricks: Most people know that teaching your dog new tricks is a great way to keep them entertained while bonding with them. But, you can add a more physical aspect to trick training by teaching them tricks like balancing on their hind legs, climbing over a bench, crawling through some chairs, or my favorite: helping you clean up their toys! These tricks will do more to tire them out physically, and can add a lot to their repertoire. We frequently offer tricks and special skills classes right here at Berkeley Humane!

DIY Treat Puzzles: Mental exercise is just as important for our pups as physical exercise, and treat puzzles can get expensive. You can easily make these with cardboard boxes or plastic water bottles and some tape! You can make them as complicated or as simple as you like (by putting a box inside of a box, using packing tape instead of scotch tape, etc…). You can fill these with any sort of treat your dog enjoys.

Nosework/Scent Games: You can use your dog's powerful nose and desire for food to activate his brain and body to search around your home for treats. You can start by playing the “Which Hand” game, which essentially is just holding a treat in one hand and letting your dog figure out which hand is holding the treat. There are many resources online for getting started: here’s an example of what nosework can look like! This game can be more mental than physical, but mental stimulation is just as important for many dogs as physical exercise. At Berkeley Humane, our certified professional trainer offers real scent work classes! Check out our Introduction to Nosework and Introduction to Odor training classes.

Flirt Pole: These are essentially giant cat toys for dogs! You can order one of these online or make one yourself - just don’t use elastic for the rope part; it can snap back and really hurt. These work great to tire dogs out and you can replace the toy on the end over and over with whatever you want.

Hide and Go Seek: You can hide yourself somewhere in your house and once you release your dog from a wait cue, it will come find you! If your dog is having some trouble, it can help to have some tasty high value treats hidden away in your pocket to get them started. After about 20-30 minutes of this, my high-energy young cattle dog is usually content to gnaw on some bones and relax. You can also do this with your dogs favorite toys!

Stairway Games: This is an option for adult dogs with a lot of energy that have stopped growing and developing in their joints and bones. If you’ve got some stairs inside and your dog is in good enough shape, you can incorporate them into a lot of other indoor activities. Playing fetch on the stairs and teaching them tricks that involve going up and down stairs is a great way to tire our your pup! For the least impact on their joints and better safety, you should start at the bottom of the steps. Don’t rush your dog as they come down the steps, as this could cause a fall or injury.

Take a Class: We offer a variety of classes here that will pep up your skills and get that puppy working! From nose work and performance tricks, to rally obedience and leash manners, there truly is something for everyone! Check out a full list of all our classes at www.berkeleyhumane.org/_classes to winterize your dog.

Life with Dogs and Babies: a new workshop at Berkeley Humane

Berkeley Humane offers a broad spectrum of helpful dog training classes from Basic Obedience to Canine Good Citizen certification, with stops along the way at useful skills like nosework and showy skills like tricks!

Berkeley Humane's own trainer, Nancy Frensley, CPDT, CAP2 (who was voted Best Private Trainer in the Bay Area in the 2010 Bay Woof "Beast of the Bay" awards), is bringing another useful class to area dog owners.

In conjunction with Jane Rosenblum, a dog trainer of 25 years who specializes in dogs and kids through The Canine-Kid Connection, we are happy to announce a Life with Dogs and Babies workshop on Sunday, November 15. If you are expecting a baby or have young children, this interactive, two-hour workshop will guide you through child-canine relationships from pregnancy through pre-school.

As a specialist in harmonious relationships between dogs and children, Rosenblum says that among the most frequent calls for help she receives are from families who didn't realize there was tension until someone was bitten. "They’re usually not serious bites," Rosenblum says. "The parents just didn’t know how closely they needed to supervise. The dog feels cornered, the child doesn't know it needs to back off, and the dog eventually snaps." This situation is easy to forestall with a little foreknowledge, she says. "It’s really about educating people."

Life with Dogs and Babies will offer tips and tricks for each phase of a baby's life — an important strategy since dogs must get used to rapid changes in their new housemates.

"If you think about it, there’s very little about a newborn baby that would tell a dog it’s a young person," Rosenblum points out. "Babies move differently, make different sounds, smell different from adults. It can take two to three months for a dog to really get used to the baby, but soon the baby starts to sit up and crawl! The dog’s used to seeing the baby one way and then the baby moves to the next stage. Each of those stages needs a new adjustment for the dog."

Some of the lessons Rosenblum will share include suggestions for helpful tools and short games to keep dogs entertained.

"People are so busy that they may forget about the dog when they have a new baby or a toddler," says Rosenblum. "So I’ve come up with a number of simple things that you can do with a dog to give it a little attention just for a couple of minutes." For example, she recommends a simple bonding exercise that most people are capable of — singing to your pooch. "A lot of dogs like being sung to. Make up a song with your dog’s name in it. It can even be the dog’s name repeated over and over again. Just look at the dog and sing! Sounds kind of silly but the dogs love it."

The workshop will also take a close look at dog body language, with photographs of dogs with babies and toddlers to demonstrate what to look for. "Some photos show safe situations and others show situations that may not be safe," Rosenblum says. 

Interested in learning about preparing your dog for a new baby? Sign up here for our Life with Dogs and Babies workshop. This class is for adults only; no dogs, please. 

Photography credits unknown; we will be happy to provide credit upon request. 

Helpful Hints to Understanding Dog Body Language

Welcome, friends, to another wonderful Woof Wednesday!  As most of our readers know, Berkeley Humane does an amazing job of finding homes for dogs and cats in need. But that’s not all that goes on, we also offer some fantastic training and classes led by our very own Behavior and Training Manager, Nancy Frensley. Nancy also offers private dog training and evaluations for dogs and owners who benefit from one-on-one attention.

I was fortunate to attend an insightful Brown Bag Primer focused on dog body language last Wednesday, where Nancy shared many tips to help attendees better approach and interact with dogs. With help from a short video, Nancy discussed the “Zoom Room Guide to Dog Body Language,” making sure to explain the different behaviors each dog exhibited.

The first topic covered was Facial Expressions. Nancy first showed us examples of relaxed dogs and pointed out certain indicators to tell when a dog is at ease such as: open mouths, ears that are relaxed/ forward, relaxed eyes, and happy expressions. Next we looked at worried dogs. Dogs that are worried will have: closed mouths, ears that are pointed backwards or sideways, wrinkles around the eyes or forehead, and often will be shrinking back from whatever it is that is scaring or worrying them.

Next, Nancy explained Stress Signals, which are behaviors dogs exhibit when they are stressed by a situation. These are also called Calming Signals, because they are used by dogs to diffuse aggression and calm interactions. Common stress signals to look out for are: a lifted paw, repeated yawing (when not tired), the “Half Moon” (wide or scared) eye, and nose licking. According to Nancy, you should look out for these signals any time your dog is encountering a new situation or meeting new dogs/ people. If you notice your dog displaying stress or calming signals, remove them from the situation or distract them until they calm down.

We then moved on to Body Language, and how to determine if a dog if relaxed, nervous, or alert. Dogs that are relaxed will have: a low, wagging tail; a friendly expression that looks alert and interested, and all four paws on the ground. Dogs that are nervous, however; will be slouching or slinking, with their tails tucked and a wary expression. They will have stiff legs and often will try to hide from what is making them nervous. As Nancy mentioned, nervous dogs are much more likely to bite so it is important to be wary of these body language displays. She then discussed the body language of alert or aroused dogs (rather than nervous). These dogs will have: closed mouths, ears forward or pricked, a forward stance, and an upright tail that may wag slowly.

Lastly, we looked at danger signs to look out for in dogs. These signs include: teeth showing, lips curled back, ears back, the “half-moon” eye, and growling and snarling. It is very important to be aware of these behaviors because dogs exhibiting them will often bite.

Throughout the discussion, Nancy gave helpful hints on how to approach dogs in each situation. For example, if a dog is very nervous or scared you can throw a treat behind them to distract them and divert their attention.

If you found these tips helpful and would like even more be sure to check out the Dog Training page of our website, https://www.berkeleyhumane.org/Dog-Training. There you can find information on our many behavior classes or private training available with Nancy, as well as great at-home resources and you’ll have access to our behavior advice hotline!

Guest post: Why Cats Need to Climb

by Kosin Huang

As an avid viewer of Cesar Milan's Dog Whisperer, it was natural that I started enjoying a show called My Cat from Hell. The show features folks going through difficult issues with their feline family members and a "cat whisperer" in the form of tattooed hipster, Jackson Galaxy coming to the rescue. I started seeing some patterns in how Jackson would address each kitty's problems and ultimately, resolve the matter at hand. Just like Cesar Milan has his prescription of "exercise, discipline, then affection" for dogs,  I noticed that Jackson was always recommending cats get their own space to navigate and climb high up around the house. This means a route for the cat to feel safe to go from perch to cat tree, bookshelf to mantle, for example.

If you have a cat at home, just observe your cat and you will notice that he or she is usually in an elevated position. Whether sleeping or just hanging out, cats prefer to be high up off the ground. Being able to climb is paramount to a cat feeling safe, because in the wild, cats must be able to climb in order to escape predators. It's a cat's survival instinct that prompts it to find perches up high.

The more vertical areas you offer your cat, the more territory it has. It gives your cat a sense of security and is even more important in multi-cat households to reduce conflict between your feline friends. Providing opportunities for a cat to navigate a complete route around the house from high up, such as from bookcase to fireplace to cabinet will go a long way towards decreasing anxiety and other behavioral issues.

So next time your cat is climbing furniture, don't shoo him or her away. Instead, clear some space for your cat to climb and everyone will be happier!

To learn more, see:

High Places: Satisfy Natural Instinct - Drs Foster and Smith

Catch My Cat from Hell on Animal Planet and check out other tips here.


Kosin Huang is a board member and development committee chair for Berkeley Humane. She lives in the East Bay with her husband, daughter, and a rescue mutt named Spartacus.

Guest Post: 10 Things You May Not Know About Berkeley Humane

By: Kosin Huang

Berkeley Humane has been around a long time and has an interesting history. Here are some tidbits you may or may not know about us:

1. We've been around since 1927...that's 87 years! (And in dog years, we're 609 years old!)
2. When we first opened, we were located in a former pool hall.
3. We are not affiliated with the Humane Society of the United States, or any other animal welfare organization.
4. We saved 938 animals last year, and are on track to save 1,000 this year!
5. We are one of few animal rescue groups that have our own veterinary team serving homeless animals.
6. Our neo-natal kitten foster program is unique in the region. 
7. We used to be called "Animal Rescue Haven".
8. We offer monthly grief counseling for those who've lost their pets. 
9. We like to pun and have hosted such events as "Bay to Barkers", "Pints for Paws", and "Bark (& Meow) Around the Block.
10. We just debuted a Mobile Adoption Center (a custom-built vehicle that enables us to bring our dogs and cats into East Bay communities and make more loving matches)!

Kosin Huang is a board member and development committee chair for Berkeley Humane. She lives in the East Bay with her husband, daughter, and a rescue mutt named Spartacus.